Thursday, September 22, 2011

Bra Strap Design and Fit

Bra straps come in a number of variations. They can be all or part elastic, all or part rigid, wide, narrow, padded, and usually length adjustable. Whatever the style, bra straps are meant to act as stabilizers for the bra. At most, they should carry no more than 10% of the breast's weight. Take the bra strap test in the sidebar.

Whatever the style, bra straps should lie flat against your chest (unless you have implants) and not fall off your shoulders. Generally speaking, straps fall off shoulders because the straps are too wide-set both in the front and back of the bra; the straps have been sewn on at an angle; or the straps are attached to rings that allow too much swiveling. If strap slippage is a common problem for you, the trick is to find a bra where the straps are either sewn closer to the center in the front or the back. HerRoom is the only website that shows back views on all bras. (See the sidebar below).

You've probably never really noticed how your straps attach to the back of your bra. Well, after reading this, I hope it becomes one of the first things you look at. How the shoulder straps are attached in back can tell you a lot about how the bra will fit. There are basically two types of strap attachments: camisole and leotard.

Camisole Strap :



Camisole Strap The camisole strap attachment style has the straps sewn onto the back at a right angle - creating a box-like shape with the bra back. This strap attachment style has been around the longest and is also used on traditional camisoles and slips. The camisole attachment style works for all bra sizes, and is particularly good for larger bra sizes because it allows the bra back to have as many hook closings as necessary; allows the straps to be made out of elastic or a rigid material; and can be easily altered. When a bra has a very narrow back with only one or two hooks for closing, the camisole attachment can pull up on the bra back making it look uneven and out-of-place (ride high on the back).


Leotard Strap The leotard strap attachment is a fairly new design in bras. Rather than a rectangle shape like the camisole attachment, the leotard attachment gives a round look on the back - similar to the look of a leotard. It has fast become the most commonly found strap attachment technique in today's ready-to-wear offerings. Besides looking different, the leotard back style almost always includes some elastic to achieve the rounded shape. Consequently, this elastic gives the wearer flexibility to raise her arms or bend over without having to adjust her bra afterwards.

There are a few challenges to a leotard strap attachment. The straps attach to the back at a bit of an angle to keep the arch styling. If the "U" shape is too wide , the straps can fall off the wearer's shoulders. The number of back fasteners is also limited with this strap design.

Finally, any adjusting bra strap has metal or plastic rings on each strap to aid in the length of your bra straps. When this ring is sewn directly on to either the top of the cup or the bra back, it will allow the strap to swivel to the right or left, and fall in a more comfortable location for the wearer. If you have sloping shoulders or are prone to having your straps fall off, avoid bras with rings placed in either of these locations.

As for how the straps attach to the front of the bra, there are two things to look for. For the best support, the straps should attach directly above the apex or point of each breast. Balconnette and demi-cup bras have the straps attached closer to the arm. There are two reasons: first, wider straps will accommodate a wider neckline, and second, straps attached on the outside of the bra cup create more cleavage by spilling the breast tissue towards the center. If you are prone to having straps fall off your shoulders, you should not select bras with wide-set front straps.

Front, back, overlay and measured bra views

Only At HerRoom

We are the only lingerie website that shows straight on back and front views of all the bras we offer. This, along with our exclusive blouse overlay shots, allows you to see how the bra straps will work with your clothes. Additionally, you can search on "leotard back" or "camisole back" when looking at bras if you have a specific back preference.
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What the Experts Know About the Proper Bra Fit

Expert Advice on the Proper Cup Size


Bras for the most part are highly engineered and thoughtfully designed. It's not unusual for a bra design to be composed of as many as 40 pieces and findings. Though many bras are beautiful, bras are more about playing a supporting role than they are about fashion. We women need to understand what we are looking at when we try on a bra. Knowing what design features work best for our figure type will help us more easily identify the style of bra that suits our needs best.

Choose the Proper Cup Size

While the underwire defines your breast's diameter, a cup size defines your breast's projection or cup depth. Cup sizing is alphabetical - A, B, C, D etc. After the D size, however, manufacturers do not all agree on what to name subsequent sizes. Generally, American manufacturers prefer D, DD, DDD, DDDD. European manufacturers tend to prefer D, E, F, G. If your cup size is larger than a D, it can be confusing to determine what size bra to purchase, especially if the manufacturer has a unique sizing convention.

HerRoom has made this easier for you. We've compiled a chart comparing all plus size manufacturers' cup sizing conventions. Simply refer to our chart to determine your correct cup size in that brand.

It is also a good idea to know how many sizes larger than a D cup you are. That way if you come across a bra with unusual sizing, you can tell your salesperson you are 2, 5 or whatever cup sizes larger than a D cup. She will then be able to ascertain your correct cup size in that style.

There are 2 important things to know about cup size.

The first is that a cup size on one band size is not equal to the same cup size on another band size. In other words, a 32D bra has smaller cup volume and diameter than a 34D bra yet both are a D cup. So I bet you're wondering why the industry assigns the same cup size to both.

Well, cup size is a measurement of how far your breasts project from your chest wall. Each cup size denotes a 1" increase in your body's circumference around your bust line. Knowing this fact can help you zero in on your correct bra size. For example, you try on a bra and the band feels comfortable, but your breasts are spilling out. Keep going up in cup sizes on the same band size until you find the bra that fits. Alternately, the cups fit great, but the band is too big. When you go down a band size, you now know that you need to go up a cup size to maintain the same underwire diameter and similar cup volume (Example: Go from a 40C to a 38D).

The second important point about cup size pertains to women with cup sizes larger than a D cup. Trying to find cup equivalents among brands can be very difficult. In one brand you are a DDDD, but this same cup size can be a G, F, or FF in other brands. The first thing you should know is that all manufacturers size their cups up by 1" circumference increases. They may call their sizing by different letters, but the increases between sizes are uniform. So, as mentioned above, find out how many cup sizes above a D you are. On our site, when you look at the sizes available in a particular bra, we display the cup sizes in order from smallest to largest. If you are 4 cup sizes larger than a D cup, you can count 4 sizes from D to find your correct size in that particular brand.

The Cup Size Game.

Finding a bra you love and discovering its size range stops just before your size can be frustrating. However, you may not be totally out of luck. Say you are a 40C and the bra you have found stops at 38DD. You MIGHT be able to wear the 38D or 38DD in that bra if the band doesn't feel too tight. Deviating from your traditional bra size is called the cup size game. Substituting bra sizes will work more successfully on women with band sizes 40 and above and D cups or larger because there is more breast tissue and body circumference to work with - a 2" band increase or a 1" bust line circumference increase is not as significant as it would be on a smaller framed person. However, having shared this game with you, it is always best to purchase your true size if you want to maximize proper fit.

A final thought about cup sizes.

When a manufacturer grades his patterns to create different sizes for a bra style, he moves the bust points slightly wider with each cup size increase. B cup bust points are 1/2" farther apart than A cups. Bust points get 1/4" farther apart between B, C and D cups, and 1/8" farther apart with larger cup sizes.
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